(published Motorcyle Tour and Travel March '96)	
	
	My son Arlo recently convinced me to cut our cable television cord and to
hook up to the Internet.  In November's Travel Master column, I asked for your
help in sending me e-mail about motorcycling to Alaska and the Yukon.  I  am
preparing for a 6 week ride from my home in Maine up to the edge of the Arctic
Ocean next summer.  Since the day the November MT&T hit the news stands you
readers have been supplying me with great stories and sound advice. 	To date
I have collected more than seventy pages of electronic mail from dozens of
readers from all over North America.    The most unusual message was from a
person who was building an "enclosed motorcycle",  and proceeded to list the
pros and cons of Swiss Ecomobiles, Pulses/Starships, and Gryo-Hawks ( They are
apparently held up at stoplights by an onboard gyroscope).  The guy was building
a Cigar roll-cage thing powered by a Goldwing drivetrain, and wanted to know if
I thought the U.S.A. was ready to accept his kit!   
	There sure are LOTS of motorcyclists out there who love to talk about
motorcycling and touring.  Posting my electronic mailbox (balrog@midcoast.com) 
has given me an instant hobby-  reading and answering e-mail.   Thanks to the
Internet, I  have one of the best researched trip plans in the annals of
motorcycle journalism.  For example, for the past month Tom has been sending me
seasonal reports of road conditions from Alaska.  Tom is also putting me in
touch with a specialist working with the Statewide Library Electronic Doorway in
Alaska who may help me find a means of connecting up my laptop when I'm out in
the bush this summer.  
	So for all you northern travelers who are thinking about journeying up north
this summer- I'm turning the rest of this column over to the experts- MT&T
readers who have taken the risk and experienced the last great driving
experience in North America.  
	 Robert from the BMW-GS mailing list posted some suggestions that I'll add
to the basic toolkit that I listed in November's column.  To be included: latex
examination gloves to keep my hands clean and warm, a razor blade utility knife,
blue Loktite, silicone grease for electrical connections, an epoxy kit, fuses,
and a clutch cable.  Another MT&T reader  rode up the Dempster Highway in his RV
and urged me to keep down my speed because of the deep potholes.   Several
readers who have successfully negotiated the 455 mile gravel Dempster highway
and recommended the Ogilvie River or the Anvil mountains as preferred camping
spots.  Doug Jankey of Vermont tells of the horrors of freshly resurfaced 
gravel and tar roads in the Watson Lake area. "One guy from Appleton, WI on an
R80 BMW got so much tar on his leathers that they had to be cut off of him.  His
bike was trashed. A couple of people on Harleys crashed in pockets of oil that
did not set up, and a couple of more people on Harleys had their drive belts
destroyed by the oil."  Doug also recommends a cruise control to ease the load
on my throttle wrist, and to take fishing gear.   Doug wrote that "Fishing
pressure is so light in the BC and the Yukon that the fish are big and really
fun to catch even if you are a relative novice".   Raphael Jones says "The most
important piece of gear that you will take with you is your riding suit"  with
leathers running a distant second to waterproof cordura products.  Opinions are
split on taking the Alaskan Marine Highway.  Raphael recommends boarding at
Skagway, AK and departing at Prince Rupert, B.C. with a side trip to Hyder, AK. 
Doug Jankey felt the Marine Highway was not much fun, despite the beautiful
coastline. The ship  was crowded, the engine noise excessive and it cost $350 
for rider and motorcycle. Alaskan motorcyclist Thomas Corrow reports that
Polartec or synthetic pile garments are a must, due to the frequency of rain.   
 He listed Geeting Aviation in Talkeetna for flights landing on the Ruth Glacier
in Denali National Park.  Walter Tifental reports that 40 degrees is sometimes
summer riding weather in Alaska and told me to go ahead and order a pair of
electric chaps. ("I know that even with my Aertostitch a 12 hour drive in rain
can be down right cold, even with heated grips.")  He also reminded me that 
since Iwould be in the land of the midnight sun,  I could leave my lantern at
home.  
	I was deeply moved by a letter from Joan Moody.  Joan traveled from Florida
to Fairbanks in 1987 with less than 1,000 miles experience on 2 wheels.  She had
only owned her 10 year old bike for two months when she departed for the North. 
Joan feels she was lucky to complete her Alaskan adventure,  but I think Joan
shines as one rugged and brave motorcyclist in a sea of wanna-be road warriors. 
 A sincere thank you to all of you that have sent me your advice and
encouragement.  Please keep your e-mail  headed my way.   Joan, check your
mailbox sometime this July.  Look for a postcard from the shores of the Arctic
Ocean.